Northern Lights over houses

DIY Finland Road-Trip: Lapland in Autumn For Best Northern Lights

If you are planning a Finland road-trip in autumn, great decision!

One of the best ways to experience the amazing autumn scenery is to take a Finland road-trip in beautiful Lapland. The locals describe this colourful foliage as “Ruska” where you will see trees and shrubs become a vibrant blend of fiery orange, red, and yellow.

In northern Finland, Ruska starts in September and lasts for about 2-3 weeks. You can pick wild berries and mushrooms as you explore the many national parks and trails in Lapland. You might even see some reindeer as you drive through the country.

The best part is that the Northern Lights are back in full force as the nights become longer in autumn. The milder 0-10°C weather is also perfect for outdoor Northern Lights chasing, so you can stay out longer to increase your chances.

If you prefer to stay indoors, you can stay in a glass igloo and fall asleep under the Northern Lights. You might be able to find amazing deals for hotels during this off-peak period.

Read more:
10 Best Glass Igloos In Finland For Northern Lights
How Much Does Finland Travel Cost? Here Is A Breakdown
Where To Stay In Rovaniemi: Best Lapland Accommodations

This article uses affiliate links where I make a small commission if you make a purchase through my links, at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Finland Road-Trip Tips

The landscape is relatively flat in Finland and the roads are mostly straight and in good condition. There is no snow yet so driving is easy and you don’t need to worry about snow tires. The speed limit ranges from 80-100km/h outside the built up areas, though you would not be encountering much traffic in Lapland.

In order to enjoy the autumn scenery, I recommend going at a slower pace and limit the drive time to 3 hours each day. This gives you enough time and energy to enjoy each location and its activities. Here are some driving tips for your Finland road-trip.

  • It’s the law to use headlights at all times
  • Drive on the right side of the road, overtake on the left
  • Move your car off to the side after filling your gas tank before going inside for payment
  • The road signs are dual-language, so you will see the name of the destination in both Finnish and Swedish
  • There are speed cameras near built up areas and towns, try to keep to the speed limit when approaching busier places
  • Bring along a car charging adapter and mobile phone stand if required
Finland Road-Trip view
Finland Road-Trip views

Car Rental

Renting a car in advance for your Finland road-trip is easy. There are car rental options in every major city and airport, with the option to return your car at a different location for a fee. We booked a small automatic car with unlimited miles and vehicle insurance via Europcar on RentalCars.com. If you are planning to visit other countries apart from Finland, there will usually be an additional fee of around 50 Euros.

Remember to bring the credit card with the name of the main driver, along with a valid driver’s license. As a tourist, a valid driver’s license should be under these categories:

  • EU or EEA Member State
  • Issued in Hong Kong, Macao, Taiwan, or a country that has ratified the Geneva/Vienna Road Traffic Convention
  • Written/translated into Finnish, Swedish, Norwegian, Danish, English, German or French by a reliable source

We brought our driver’s license that was issued in English in Singapore and had no issues during car collection. You can check for more details of license validity here.

Chasing Northern Lights in Finland

The Northern Lights season begins in September until early April. Despite the popularity of Finland travel in winter, autumn is a great season for milder outdoor conditions. The autumn equinox in September and October also coincides with greater geomagnetic activity.

Lapland is situated in the Arctic Circle so you get excellent chances of viewing the Northern Lights as you go further north. In northern villages like Utsjoki and Kilpisjarvi, locals claim to see the Northern Lights every 4 out of 5 nights during their peak.

In general the best time each night is from 10pm to 2am when the sky is darkest. You can also check the KP index which measures the amount of geomagnetic activity in the Earth’s atmosphere from a scale of 0-10. The average night in Lapland has KP index of 1-3, which is good enough for Northern Lights to appear.

Weather conditions are critical when chasing Northern Lights, especially when it comes to cloud cover. I recommend spending around 7-10 days in Lapland to buffer for suboptimal weather. You can check the forecast nearer to your travel dates and maybe focus your efforts on driving out when the night sky is expected to be clear. Even if you don’t see any Northern Lights, you will definitely be able to stargaze and even try photographing the Milky Way.

Here are some useful resources for stargazing and Northern Lights chasing:

  • Aurora Reach website/app that forecasts and monitors Northern Light activity with community check-ins and mobile notifications
  • Night Sky App shows the constellations, Milky Way positions, and compass directions as you point your phone to the sky
  • Space weather in Finland showing the estimated probability of Aurora based on region
  • Youtube live video from Utsjoki in Finnish Lapland provided by Aurora Holidays

Day 1: Start your Finland road-trip by driving along Route 970 to Utsjoki

Distance for the day: 250km

Our Finland road-trip will begin in Ivalo which is only 1.5 hours away via domestic flight from Helsinki. Ivalo Airport is the northernmost airport in Finland and serves as the gateway to northern Lapland. You can pick up your rental car at the booth near the exit after confirming paperwork with the staff. We will be driving through Inari and Karigasniemi, taking Route 970 to get to Utsjoki.

If you need a snack after the flight, I recommend dropping by any K-supermarket in Ivalo. We bought cooked salmon and potatoes to eat in the carpark and it was delicious! The next place you can stop at for lunch is Hotel Guossi in Karigasniemi. It is a small town at the foot of Mount Ailigas and also near the border of Norway and Finland. Next, we will proceed north for the amazing Route 970 drive.

Route 970 has been termed the most scenic route in Finland because of the beautiful valley views of the River Teno that run between Finland and Norway. This part of the trip is meant to be taken slowly, so go ahead and take many pictures along the way.

Accommodation: Hotel Utsjoki

Hotel Utsjoki is one of the best hotels in the far north of Lapland for watching the Northern Lights. If the weather is right, you will be treated to the most spectacular aurora showing in the comfort of this cabin-igloo hybrid.

Check the latest deals and availability for Hotel Utsjoki on Booking.com.

Day 2: Detour to Vardo (Norway) for the Varanger National Tourist Route

Distance for the day: 200km

At this point we are so close to Norway that we might as well explore the wild coastal roads of northern Norway, all the way to the end of Europe. The landscape along the Varanger National Tourist Route evolves into rugged seascapes of the Barents Sea. The weather changes unpredictably the further north you go, and it made us feel like we were in a different world.

There are several viewpoints and historical sites along this route, such as the Steilneset Memorial which commemorates the witch trials held in Vardo in 1621. Vardo is one of the larger towns at the end of this route and you can choose to stay here for the night before making the drive back. Fun fact – the first subsea tunnel in Norway was built to link Vardo island to continental Norway, and you will get to drive through this. Another highlight in Vardo is the Drakkar, a cool art project installation done by Russian students in 2016.

Accommodation: Meieriet Hotel

There are only a handful of accommodation options in this small town. Meieriet Hotel is run by an elderly couple and they made us feel very welcome. Although it was a cold and rainy evening, we felt warm and comfortable inside. Be sure to try their Norwegian Bacalao dish which is made using dried salted cod. Do note that you need to climb a flight of stairs to get to your room.

Check the latest deals and availability for Meieriet Hotel on Booking.com.

Day 3: Drive back to Nourgam for cottage stay

Distance for the day: 200km

Next, we drive back to Nourgam to explore the fells, lakes, and even do some short hikes. Nourgam is an eastern part of the Utsjoki region, and I recommend staying in a cottage with a balcony or porch facing the river. It will be a great place to relax with some hot drinks as you watch the sunset. If weather permits, a Northern Lights display over the river would be magical.

Accommodation: Arctic Aurora Borealis Cottage

The Arctic Aurora Borealis Cottage is in such a lovely location overlooking the river and the opposite hills. We loved staying here during autumn as we could see fall foliage all around the cottage.

It was a huge cabin with a loft overlooking the river view. If you’re coming with a group, this place is perfect for hanging out. There’s a fully equipped kitchen as well so you can make dinner and coffee on your own.

The best part is, it didn’t cost a bomb and was just value for money. We felt safe here and really enjoyed the secluded location.

Check the latest deals and availability for Arctic Aurora Borealis Cottage on Booking.com.

Day 4: Drive to Saariselka for Glass Igloo stay

Distance for the day: 240km

As you drive back to Utsjoki you can explore the historical church huts which were owned by Sami families in the 18th century. Our next stop is Saariselka, a resort village that serves as the starting point for many trails in Urho Kekkonen National Park.

Utsjoki Church Huts
Utsjoki Church Huts

Accommodation: Star Arctic Hotel

Staying at Star Arctic Hotel was one of our highlights because it was at the top of the Kaunispaa Fell, offering amazing sunset and night sky views. It is also very popular in winter because of its proximity to the top of the ski slope. The Aurora cabins are facing North and away from the town center, such that light pollution is minimised for better Northern Lights viewing experience.

Dining in the resort’s restaurant, Kaunis, was also a treat as we basked in the sunset glow while enjoying fresh trout and reindeer steak. You can book the private sauna for 2 pax at 15 EUR, which includes shower and toilet amenities. It is very relaxing because they will pre-heat the sauna for you, and all you need to do is bring a change of clothes.

Check the latest deals and availability for Star Arctic Hotel on Booking.com.

It was about 8:30pm when the sun had set and there appeared to be fuzzy green clouds in the sky. Merrick’s iPhone 13 managed to capture the Northern Lights through a long exposure photo so we knew that our eyes were not playing tricks on us. We rushed to get our camera gear out to start shooting because we were so nervous that they will be gone soon.

Thankfully the Northern Lights became even more dramatic for the next 2-3 hours as the sky got darker. We stood outside our room for a long time trying to photograph and admire the lights. Eventually we retreated to the room for some hot tea before lying down on the bed to look at the stars and Northern Lights. This was the day I believed that Northern Lights were real.

Day 5: Explore Husky Farm and Urho Kekkonen National Park

Saariselka also offers husky and reindeer farm visits, and either your hotel or another vendor like Lapland Safari can help you to arrange them. You can either book the activities online, or simply call them to make arrangements and go to the office for payment at least 1 day beforehand. There aren’t many guides working during autumn, so it’s better to make bookings in advance. During our husky farm visit they showed us how they train the dogs for the winter sled-pulling season. We also enjoyed the chance to walk one of the huskies around the kennel.

You can also pre-book some activities online via Manawa. For example, check out this listing for the arctic horse riding safari.

The top of Kaunispaa Fell offers a beautiful panoramic view of Saariselka. In fact, many drive up here to watch the sunset and the Northern Lights because of its elevation. You can also try the amazing salmon soup at Kaunispaan Huippu Oy, a popular rest stop for food and souvenirs.

Urho Kekkonen National Park is a great place for hiking and mountain biking over the fell. There are many well-marked trails that you can explore on a day hike from Saariselka, with varying levels of difficulty.

The trails in Urho Kekkonen National Park are divided into “Out onto the Fell” which are easy and theme-based, and “Out into the Wilderness” which are more demanding. Here are some themed hiking trails that start and end in Saariselka suitable for a day hike:

  • Aurorapolku: 2.1km (1hr, map)
  • Iisakkipaa: 3km or 7km (2-5hr, map)
  • Rumakuru: 14km (4-5hr, map)
  • Prospektori: 7.4km or 9km (3-4hr, map)

The themed trails are marked with signposts with their own logo symbols, so just follow those to avoid veering off onto wilderness trails. If you are interested in the wilderness trails, you can follow any of the brown-coloured trails on this map’s terrain. There is public parking space near the Saariselka starting point so you can drive there to start your hike.

Day 6: Drive to Rovaniemi Santa Claus Village

Distance for the day: 250km

On your way back to Rovaniemi you will pass through Tankavaara, which is another starting point for other trails in Urho Kekkonen National Park. There is a short 1km trail called Urpiaislenkki where you can take a chill walk and try berry picking. The morning air is crisp and it’s nice to be out in nature again. You can even visit the museum at Tankavaara Gold Village, or attend a gold panning workshop.

Finland Road-Trip views

If you get tired during the drive, there are several summer cafes along the way that are situated beside lakes or reservoirs. You can take a coffee break and buy pancakes at places like Zippi & Suhaus and Cafe Harriana. These cafes seem to be closed from October onwards as the season changes.

Accommodation: Santa Claus Holiday Village

Most people visit Santa Claus Village when they visit Rovaniemi just because its Finland’s trademark. It is located on the border of the Arctic Circle and many like to take photos of themselves crossing this line.

Another fun thing to do is to send a postcard mail from the Santa Claus’ Main Post Office for someone to receive during Christmas. It is a stone’s throw away from the airport and city, and you might get decent hotel rates in the Santa Claus Holiday Village given the off-peak period.

There are some nice lakes and trails to explore within 10-20 minutes drive, and you can even start scouting out locations for Northern Lights viewing. That’s the fun part about going on your own Finland road-trip!

Check the latest deals and availability for Santa Claus Holiday Village on Booking.com.

Here are more of my recommendations for where to stay in Rovaniemi.

Day 7: Rovaniemi city tour

There are a few popular attractions in Rovaniemi that you should visit:

  • Arktikum Science Centre and Museum – focusing on Arctic issues and the history/culture of Lapland
  • Korundi House of Culture – contemporary art exhibitions
  • Science Centre Pilke – exploration of northern forests and the use of wood

They are all walking distance from each other, and you can purchase the Culture Pass to get access to all three museums. This is a multi-entry ticket valid for 7 days. My personal favourite is the Arktikum because of the stunning architecture and the informative exhibitions about Lapland’s way of life in the early days.

If you want to have dinner in the more popular restaurants like Nili Restaurant or Gustav, it is the norm to make a reservation beforehand to avoid disappointment.

Northern Lights in Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi has higher light pollution compared to smaller towns like Saariselka, so it’s a good idea to seek out dark sites to watch the Northern Lights. The popular places are Norvajarvi and Olkkajarvi lakes which are just 10km away from the Santa Claus Village.

We stopped by Norvajarvi in the evening to enjoy golden hour and noticed that the sky looked clear. It was really beautiful and we knew it would be a great place for Northern Lights as it was far from the main road and its street lights.

When we returned to this spot at close to 10pm there were already 3 groups of people there. Some of them were locals, and some were people from a Northern Lights chasing tour group. We knew we struck the jackpot with the location scouting. We saw some Northern Lights but the clouds were threatening to cover up the ones over the lake.

After some time, we turned our eyes to look north and saw a vertical streak of Northern Lights dancing over the trees. It was very majestic and of course everyone wanted a photo with it. We finally managed to get this shot of us which also captures how beautiful the Northern Lights were against the starry sky. We spent almost 3 hours out there and finally left after midnight. What a nice way to conclude this Finland road-trip.

If you prefer a guided experience, consider booking this Northern Lights excursion near Rovaniemi that even includes a Lappish BBQ.

Day 8: End of Finland road-trip, back to Helsinki

Finally it’s time for the flight back from Rovaniemi to Helsinki. The rental car return process was simply a key drop at the airport with no one at the counter. If you encounter any issues, such as being unable to find the rental car park location, you can call the hotline and they will assist you.

I hope this DIY Finland road-trip guide can help you plan your next scenic getaway. It was really nice to enjoy the small things like wild berry picking and watching the sunset over the river. The Northern Lights were definitely the highlight of our trip, and I wish you all the best in your Lapland adventure. Remember to bring your camera!

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Do you want some help planning your next trip? Let’s plan it together!

Read more:
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How To Take Great Photos Of Yourself Hiking

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4 Comments

  1. Hi Janice, understand that you did your “DIY Finland Road” in autumn but I would like to know from you on whether your this itinerary applicable during the month of Dec (winter)? Especially on the self drive portion on the road!!

    1. Hi Matthew, I think driving in winter might be challenging if you’re not a local because it’s common for google maps to not account for road changes/reroutes because of the snow. There are a lot of winter activities you can still DIY though – let me know if you’re interested in some of them e.g. husky sleds or reindeer rides. Drop me an email at janice@wheresjanice.com and I’ll share the links with you

  2. Hello Janice, thanks for sharing the tips! Do you remember when did you visit, early or mid of September? Thanks!

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