Overnight Karasawa Cirque Hike In Kamikochi: What You Need To Know

Are you looking for the ultimate hiking adventure in Japan? Kamikochi is the gateway to the stunning Japanese Alps, and the Karasawa Cirque hike tops the list for the best thing to do there.

I love the idea of staying in a mountain hut, but Japan’s mountains are known to be very challenging to climb. Since we weren’t ready to tackle exposed ridge lines or technical routes, we decided to look for something more beginner-friendly for our trip to Kamikochi.

The Karasawa Cirque hike is perfect because at the end of the trail you have not one – but two mountain huts to choose from for your overnight stay. The views here are out of this world, and you’ll also get to experience the Japanese outdoor culture on this overnight adventure.

In this article, I’ll share my best tips for planning your Karasawa Cirque hike as well as our experience here. That way, you too can enjoy this amazing natural landscape outside Japan’s busy cities.

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Planning your Karasawa Cirque hike

Karasawa, in Kamikochi, is one of the best hiking destinations in Japan. Here’s everything you need to know, from basic trail information to booking a mountain hut and things to bring.

Trail overview

• Distance: 16.9 km (10.5 miles) one way
• Duration: 6.5 hours
• Elevation gain: 754 m (2,474 ft)

Our adventure begins at Kamikochi Bus Terminal, passing through the Dakesawa Marshland, winding along the Azusa River until we start our climb towards Karasawa. The Karasawa mountain huts sit at the base of the peaks at an elevation of 2,350 m (7,709 ft).

Best time to go

The best time to hike the Karasawa Cirque is in mid September to October as that’s when the fall colors are the most vibrant. Alternatively, if you like flowers, summer in July to August is the ideal season for that.

Note that Kamikochi is only open from mid-April to mid-November, and the huts are usually open from May to October. If you’re hiking during shoulder season, do be ready for snow at higher elevations.

You can check the official Kamikochi website for updates on opening dates and trail conditions.

Difficulty

This is a beginner-friendly trail because 75% of the trail is flat with minimal elevation gain. You’ll only gain elevation significantly after Yokoo Sanso, around the 12.5 km (7.8 miles) mark.

The hardest part of this trail is the 700 m (2,296 ft) uphill climb over just 5 km (3.1 miles). In the context of Japan’s mountain climbing scene, it’s probably just a 3/5 difficulty level.

💡 Planning tip: Most people underestimate how tired they’ll be after this hike. Booking a comfortable onsen stay after you complete this trail makes a huge difference for sore legs and knees.
👉 Check availability at this spacious ryokan in a nearby onsen town

Map

Here’s the route we took, starting from Kamikochi Bus Terminal all the way to Karasawa Goya hut. We paid for the AllTrails+ membership which allows us to download trail maps for offline use.

Click here to prepare for your hike using AllTrails+

I’ve marked out the key landmarks in numbers in the map below, which I’ll be referencing throughout the article. You can also save this for future reference.

Food and restrooms

You can find plenty of food options up to Kappa-bashi bridge, including cold dessert for a hot summer day. Restrooms become more “rustic” the further you go, and you’re also encouraged to leave a 100 yen donation to support the maintenance of these toilets.

We felt that there were enough toilets along the way, just that the final stretch from Yokoo Sanso to Karasawa Goya was a tad longer. If anything, it spurred us to keep moving with toilets as the prize.

Here are some of the areas where you’ll come across food and restroom amenities:

• Kamikochi Bus Terminal
• Kappa-bashi bridge
• Myojin-bashi bridge
• Tokusawa
• Yokoo Sanso (limited snacks)
• Karasawa Hutte and Karasawa Goya (compost toilets)

Mountain huts

There are actually 2 huts you can consider, Karasawa Hutte and Karasawa Goya. We chose Karasawa Goya because of its higher elevation so we’d have a good view of the cirque from the outdoor deck. Some people also choose Karasawa Hutte because it’s larger, which can be an important factor during the peak season.

To book a stay in the mountain hut, you’ll need to call as they don’t accept online reservations. Thankfully we have friends who live in Japan, and I’m so grateful for their help! Here’s the information you’ll need to provide:

• Number of people
• Name(s)
• Phone number (could be your friend’s local number)
• Date of stay
• Number of meals

Initially, we were hesitant to pay 14,000 yen per person for a mountain hut stay where you don’t get flush toilets and warm showers. However, at the end of it we were very happy with our decision and you’ll see why in our experience below.

If you choose to stay without any meals, it costs just 9,500 yen. Typically, it’ll cost an extra 2,000 yen for the busy period between September 14 to October 14. Do note that payment is by cash only, and you’ll need to arrive by 3pm to be safe.

Our Karasawa Cirque hike experience

I’d heard so much about Kamikochi, and it was a dream to spend the night in the stunning Karasawa Cirque. Did you know that Cirque is actually a geographical term? It refers to a bowl-shaped part of the mountain that’s been eroded by glacier melt, and being there makes you feel like the peaks are so close.

On our Karasawa Cirque journey, we battled a sprained ankle, abdominal cramps, and a race against time. Even though conditions could’ve been better, this adventure was unforgettable and I smile every time I look back on it.

Here’s how our experience went – with some practical tips that will help you along the way too.

Starting our journey from Kamikochi Bus Terminal

#1 to #2

Since the hike will take 6.5 hours and you should get to the hut before 3pm, the ideal time to start would be no later than 8:30am. In fact, the hut website recommends starting at 6am and arriving by 12pm because mountain weather conditions are unpredictable in the afternoon.

Unfortunately for us, we were staying outside Kamikochi the night before didn’t manage to get seats for the first bus in. Hence, we only got to Kamikochi Bus Terminal at 8:30am.

There were still a few things we had to do before starting our hike:

• Deposit our medium-sized bag at the luggage storage area
• Write and submit our hiking itinerary
• Bought a hiking pole because I had a sprained ankle but still wanted to see how far we could go (you can save money by buying in advance)

15 minutes later at 8:45am, we finally rushed off onto the trail. My sprained ankle was still getting warmed up at this point so we couldn’t go too fast. Thankfully it’s a flat-ish 12km trail all the way till Yokoo Sanso and I hoped for my ankle to feel good enough to make the climb up eventually.

Kappa-bashi Bridge to Myojin

#2 to #3

Shortly after we started, we came to Kappa-bashi Bridge and it the view here was absolutely stunning. It felt like the money shot that everyone comes here for. We took a couple of selfies and enjoyed the quietness of the morning before continuing our way.

Up till Kappa-bashi Bridge, you’re still in the “Sightseeing zone”. Beyond that, it becomes the “Exploring zone” and trails become less paved and more natural. You’ll also find bear bells along the way that remind you you’re in bear country.

Normally you’d continue along the left-shore path towards Konashidaira and Myojin. However when we were there, that route was closed due to risk of debris flow. Hence, we took a detour through the Dakesawa Marsh and followed the right-shore path to Myojin-bashi Bridge.

We arrived at the Myojin Restroom at 10am having covered 4.4 km (2.7 miles) so far. I’ve got to admit we took many photo breaks because this place is just so scenic.

Myojin to Yokoo Sanso

#3 to #4

The trail between Myojin to Yokoo Sanso had mostly the same view, though you’d still get a new perspective of the valley with every turn. There weren’t any surprises, just a flat trail along the river. They also call this trails past Myojin the “Trekking zone”.

After 3 km (1.9 miles), we arrived at Tokusawa for our restroom break. It was about 11am and the day was starting to heat up. There’s a campsite and lodge here too, which are popular options for people who want to spend the night in Kamikochi before a big day hike into the mountains.

#4 to #5

There was construction going on at the river bank past Tokusawa which I know can’t be helped but was a bit unnatural to see. It seemed like they were trying to redirect the river after it overflowed previously. It got a little more rocky at some parts, but my ankle was feeling pretty warmed up enough to handle it.

Another 3.7 km (2.3 miles) and 1 hour later, we arrived at Yokoo Sanso at 12pm – our final rest stop before “Mountaineering zone”. We used the toilet, filled up our bottles for the last time, and took more selfies at the bridge. This is getting exciting!

Yokoo Sanso to Hondani Bridge

#5 to #6

The trail from Yokoo Sanso begins with a slight incline until you get to Hondani Bridge which is 2.9 km away (1.8 miles). It took us 1.5 hours to get here – really starting to pant now.

Hondani Bridge to Karasawa Goya

#6 to #7

Hondani Bridge marks the start of a long stretch of rocky steps that take you higher into the mountains. Although we started our hike a little late, we managed to catch up slightly because we only had a day pack instead of a backpack full of camping gear. That said, I really admire the older folk who are still out here on these adventures – I hope to be like them next time.

We climbed up another 1 hour to get to S Gare (also known as S Scree) where we had a snack break. This will be our last rest stop – because the hut is just 50 minutes away from here. Don’t forget to look up and enjoy the view too.

Arriving at the Karasawa Goya mountain hut

The hardest part of this hike is probably the last stretch where you can see the Karasawa Goya mountain hut already, but the stairs never seem to end.

Finally, we got to the hut at 3:15pm which wasn’t ideal since they told us to arrive by 3pm. We really tried to, but with a sprained ankle and period cramps this was the fastest we could go considering we couldn’t take the earliest bus in.

Make sure to have a booking reference number or some proof of booking ready when you check in, especially if you don’t speak Japanese. It would be really awkward if they can’t match your English name to a Japanese spelling of your name they’ve written down at the time of booking.

Other than that, the check-in process was pretty smooth as we just had to make the cash payment. We were told to keep our shoes away, and use the slippers they provided for walking outside the hut.

Our Karasawa Goya review

The staff took us into the building and showed us to our sleeping area, the toilets, and the dining area. After that we spent some time chilling at the outdoor deck with the rest of the other guests and admired the cirque scenery.

Food and drinks: 8/10

There’s a snack store that is open to both guests and day hikers or campers. We couldn’t resist a warm bowl of oden and beer to reward ourselves for making it up here. Before the store closed at 4pm, we bought coffee as well. Prices were understandably higher, but I think it was worth it.

There were staggered dinner timings during our stay – 5:20pm and 5:45pm, and ours was the latter. Some people bought canned beer from the vending machines to go along with their meal. In the morning, breakfast was also staggered and ours was at 5:45am. Everyone gets hot tea to go along with their meals which was such a treat.

Sleeping area: 9/10

We got assigned a lower bunk area and were surprised to see clean sheets, blankets, pillows, and futons provided. There’s also enough room for you to put your bags, though there are shelves around the room for extra storage too.

Although there are no charging ports next to your sleeping area, you can use the shared wall plugs along the hallway. It’s Japan – so it’s safe to leave your phone unattended (maybe not for too long).

You’ll also have a privacy curtain to block out some light if you’re planning to turn in early. Most people were in bed by around 7:30pm because the lights out time was 8:30pm. The next morning, we woke up at 5am, slowly packed and folded up our bedding, just in time for breakfast.

Toilets: 7/10

While rooms for sleeping were on the 2nd floor, the toilets are on the 1st floor. Men’s and women’s are separate, and I never had to wait to use the toilet. These are compost toilets with a separate compartment for solids and liquids, and you’re not supposed to put any toilet paper inside. Instead, a bin is provided in each stall for trash.

There are instructions inside the toilet on what you need to do – though I was confused about it at the start. I just know that you’re supposed to press the button on the side when you go number two so that the solids can get “mixed” into the compost, similar to flushing. Afterwards, remember to put the seat cover down to contain the smells.

There’s a large sink with mirrors outside the restrooms where most people will brush their teeth and wash their faces. You can also get potable water from these taps. In general, the toilets and washing up area is really clean and quite comfortable for a mountain hut’s standard.

Overall review: 8/10

The mountain hut is unbelievably clean – truly a testament to the virtues of Japanese culture. There’s also WiFi here which was the biggest surprise for us, and it was pretty fast. My favorite part of the mountain hut is the outdoor deck where we admired the alpenglow at sunrise. I’m convinced we had the best view of the Karasawa Cirque.

The experience is absolutely worth 14,000 yen, and sure beats paying the same amount to stay in a lodge in the valley. If there were one thing I’d wish for – it’s a fireplace to huddle around.

Hiking back to Kamikochi Bus Terminal

People started setting off early the next morning after breakfast, and some of them were taking day hikes up to the mountain peaks. Although check out was at 8am, we started our descent at 6:50am because we were heading to an onsen town to relax after this.

As we set off, we looked back again at how majestic the Karasawa Goya mountain hut looked against the Cirque backdrop. Once it disappeared from our view, we focused on getting down safely as my recovering ankle had to get warmed up again for the day.

The journey down was much easier, but it can be tough on the knees. That’s when I was grateful for the trekking poles we got. We chatted with a fellow hiker who looked to be in his 70s, who managed to hike up to Kita-Hotaka-Dake, one of the peaks around the Cirque. Now that’s impressive – and he emphasized that we must climb Mt Fuji someday.

We rested briefly at Hondani bridge as it marked the end of the steep downhill sections, and made our way to Myojinkan lodge for lunch. Finally, we got to Kappa-bashi bridge which was really crowded in the mid-afternoon, and then back to Kamikochi Bus Terminal.

Getting to Kamikochi and other side trips

Where else can you go near Kamikochi? Here’s my take on a multi-day trip you can plan around your Kamikochi adventure.

We chose to spend 2 nights in Matsumoto before our Karasawa Cirque hike, and then 1 night in Hirayu Onsen as a treat. Make sure to book your highway buses as early as you can. Here’s our recommended route:

• Tokyo Shinjuku to Matsumoto (4,100 yen)
• Matsumoto to Kamikochi (4,000 yen)
• Kamikochi to Hirayu Onsen (1,500 yen) – not reservable
• Hirayu Onsen to Tokyo Shinjuku (6,200 yen)

Matsumoto to Kamikochi

The best way to get from Matsumoto to Kamikochi is via the direct National Park Liner bus and you’ll arrive at 7:05am. However, tickets were sold out and we had to take the alternative route there, which delayed our starting time by slightly over an hour. Hence, I recommend taking the direct bus even if it’s more expensive and requires you to wake up earlier.

National Park Liner direct bus

• Earliest departure from Matsumoto Bus Terminal: 5:30am
• Arrival at Kamikochi Bus Terminal: 7:05am
• Cost: 4,000 yen one-way
• Reservations: Possible (recommended)

Train to Shin-shimashima then bus

• Earliest departure from Matsumoto Station: 7:01am
• Arrival at Kamikochi Bus Terminal: 8:15am
• Cost: 3,260 yen one-way
• Reservations: Not possible – buy a one-way ticket at the station

I found this website really useful for tips on transportation between Matsumoto and Kamikochi.

Kamikochi to Hirayu Onsen

There are buses leaving from Kamikochi to Hirayu Onsen every 30 minutes and reservations are not possible. You can purchase tickets from the ticketing windows at the Kamikochi Bus Terminal, and then get in line for the next bus. The ride costs 1,500 yen per person and only takes 25 minutes to get to Hirayu Onsen.

What impressed us the most was the buffet dining which includes personal stoves for guests to grill and enjoy hot pot. The environment is very relaxing as the ryokan features Japanese traditional gardens throughout the property.

To and from Tokyo

If you want to go directly between Tokyo and Kamikochi, make sure to book your bus rides in advance. It takes about 5 hours for the daytime bus, and costs 8,000 to 14,000 yen one-way. This would make the most sense if you’re short on time.

You can also choose to take the overnight bus into Kamikochi to save on overnight accommodation the night before your Karasawa Cirque hike. However, it will take 7 hours and is more expensive at 10,000 to 16,000 yen one-way.

Although we initially considered this, we decided that we wanted to get a good night’s rest instead since we weren’t in a rush.

Conclusion and final tips

Kamikochi is a really beautiful place, and it’s worth making the trip out of Tokyo or any other big city to experience the wonder of the Japanese Alps. The Karasawa Cirque hike is one of the bucket list activities in the amazing outdoor scene in Japan.

Just make sure to prepare yourself for this physically demanding hike if you’ve never done anything like this before. Food and snacks will help you keep going, and don’t forget to drink lots of water along the way.

Hopefully this article gave you a good idea on what to expect along the trail as well as for the mountain hut stay in Karasawa Goya. If you had a good time, I’d love to know how your trip went. I’m sure it’ll be amazing.

If you have more time, check out Hakuba, Nagano – another Japanese mountain town with incredible scenery and hikes.